World
of RVs - Jon Johanson: Trip East
On July 2,
Jon lifted off the runway at Brisbane, on the east coast
of Australia. Even with the immense fuel load, the
airplane was in the air after a ground roll of about
1100 feet, climbing to 9000' at about 650 ft/min. At
altitude, Jon dialed in Nandi on both GPS units, leaned
the mixture and watched the ocean go by. Nine hours and
thirty five minutes later, Nandi showed up, directly
over the spinner.
The
next day was a relatively short leg to the fabled
island of Pago Pago. After an overnight rest, Jon
launched on a really long leg to an insignificant
speck formerly known as Christmas Island, now Kiritimati
Atoll.
Kiritimati
is a coral atoll barely 30 miles across. It sits at the
southern end of series of even smaller atolls just north
of the equator, about 1700 nautical miles south of
Hawaii. There is no airport within several hundred miles
in any direction. You simply cannot afford to miss it.
Jon had ample time to marvel at the courage of the
pioneers who flew these vast distances on celestial
navigation and dead reckoning, no doubt praying that
when they got there the weather would be good enough to
actually see the place. No such worries in NOJ.
"Those
Garmin GPS's were agreeing within about a quarter mile.
They led me right to the center of the island." Jon
marveled. "Garmin are fair dinkum when they say
their units will take you anywhere."
To his
relief, arrangements made thousands of miles and many
weeks away had worked and fuel was waiting for him. He
filled the tanks and after a good sleep, launched for
Hilo, on the big island of Hawaii. The tiny airplane
spun its way through the huge Pacific sky, and the GPS
box did its magic with the signals from the satellites
overhead.
About four
hours from Hawaii, four hours from anywhere, the engine
suddenly began to run rough. Scary, but in an odd way,
being so far from land made life easier. There was
nothing to do but push on; no decisions to make, no
places to divert to. Jon double checked the GPS,
reviewed his ditching procedures, and flew on. And on.
Nothing got worse, but it didn't get better either.
Once again
the satellites were correct and Hilo showed up in the
right place at the right time. What the satellites
didn't mention is that it was July 4, a national holiday
in the United States, and when Jon landed, no customs
official could be found, in spite of faxes, flight plans
and phone calls made before the flight. Jon spent five
hours waiting, then decided that a good sleep was more
important than bureaucratic niceties. The next day he
spent the time waiting for the government to arrive by
pulling the cowl and going through a complete 50 hour
check. The source of engine roughness was obvious: an
exhaust pipe had cracked near the cylinder flange. He
was able to get it welded without much problem.
When Customs
finally arrived they were quite miffed that Jon had a)
exhibited the bad taste to arrive on a holiday, and b)
hadn't sat in his airplane until they showed up. Jon was
a little testy that they a) hadn't bothered with any of
his prior notifications and b) that after fourteen hours
in an RV-4 cockpit, they expected him to spend the night
in it, as well! Eventually, ruffled feathers were
smoothed and after a rather rude welcome to the USA, Jon
was on his way to the American mainland.
The leg from
Hilo to Santa Barbara was the longest overwater leg of
the entire global flight -- even for the airlines, the
Pacific passage is the longest trip with no alternate
airports in the world. Jon took off with the Hawaiian
sunset behind him and turned east, climbing to 13,500
feet and going on oxygen. The winds were almost nil, the
sky slowly darkened until it was broken only by
starlight. Soon, even that disappeared behind a high
haze. The airplane hummed hypnotically as it slipped
through pure black, so steadily it seemed to be flying
in syrup. Earth and sea and motion and airplane fell
away and Jon was just.....there. "It's an odd
feeling." he says. " A friend describes it as
'the lights are on, but nobody's home.' You're not
asleep, but your body and mind are resting. If anything
went wrong, you'd be on it in a flash...but meanwhile,
you sort of.... expand. You know where you are, but
you're in a much bigger place than just your
body...."
Almost
fifteen hours after takeoff, the sky brightened as he
flew back into daylight and the California coast
appeared. Santa Barbara was covered in a fog so thick
that even an instrument approach was impossible.
Instead, Jon continued over the coastal hills and landed
in Santa Ynez. Two hours the clouds burned away and
allowed him to fly back. TV cameras and local RV
builders, who had been waiting since early morning,
stood applauding as the prop fell through and stopped.
Jon grinned. Forty nine and a half flying hours from
Australia, he was among friends and a mere
half-continent away from Oshkosh. Nothing could stop him
now.
Now that
you�ve had some time to think about the enormity of
that, maybe you've dragged the dusty atlas off the
bookshelf and contemplated the first portion of Jon�s
flight from Australia to California. It's a long, long,
way and almost all of it over that blue stuff. For Jon,
once the wheels rolled in Santa Barbara, the adventure
changed a bit. Now he was in the USA, with airports
under every bush (at least by recent standards), fuel
available everywhere and friends and fellow RV pilots
within a few minutes flying of wherever he happened to
be. Fat city!
Since he was
about three weeks early for Oshkosh, Jon spent the time
doing a bit of sight seeing. Before he left California,
he flew to Santa Paula for a look around that
fascinating reservoir of aviation history and knowledge.
Here he met Klaus Savier, who donated one of his
Lightspeed electronic ignitions to Jon's cause. Jon
installed it promptly and was impressed.
"I
already had an electronic ignition in place of one mag,
and at altitude it had improved fuel economy about 10%
over what I was able to get with a mag. Klaus' system
was even better. It idled slower and I thought I was
getting another percentage point or two in fuel economy.
Later, I had lots of time out over the Atlantic and was
able to pinpoint about an improvement of almost 1/2
gallon an hour. It's a good system."
From
California, it was north to Oregon to visit Van's
Aircraft and look around the factory a bit. The next few
days were spent in rest, a few talks to EAA chapters,
and some local flying...including trying out the rest of
Van's fleet.
"I was
pretty well convinced that there wasn't another airplane
on earth that flew as well as the RV-4, but Van wrecked
all that when he let me fly his personal RV-3. It's
light and simple, just the kind of airplane you'd think
Van would have, and in the air it is just lovely. Now I
want of those, too..."
After his
stay in the Northwest, Jon headed for Oshkosh with stops
in Leadville, CO ("The highest peak in Australia is
lower than the Leadville airport. I had to land
there.") and Missouri.
Finally,
opening day rolled around, and the EAA management,
by now well aware of Jon's undertaking, had arranged
a special arrival. Members of Australia's SAAA had
chartered a Qantas 747 to Oshkosh, and Qantas had
supplied their most spectacular aircraft, "Wanula
Dreaming". Painted from nose to tail in colorful
Aboriginal designs, the noise of its landing was almost
drowned out by the sound of cameras recording the
touchdown. As close in trail as prudence would permit
came a small green and white RV-4. The PA announcer
pointed out that both aircraft had flown from Australia...
and that, as a special surprise, Jon's wife and three
children were aboard the 747.
You can
imagine Jon�s surprise...when he left Australia, he
was single and had no children! Actually, when the doors
of the big airplane opened, it was his brother Leigh
that came out of the crowd to greet him. For the rest of
the show, the brothers could be seen roaming the far
fields of aircraft parking, checking it all out.
Occasionally they would stop in at Van's booth for a bit
of rest and then they'd be off, "Trying to find
that wife and kids for Jon." Leigh explained.
"There's so many people here we ought to be able
find a family running about loose somewhere."
During the
show, EAA director Dean Hall had arranged for Jon to
have the use of the EAA's maintenance hangar to perform
the mandatory 100 hour checks required under Australian
regulations. A cooperative Australian LAME (you can find
anything at Oshkosh!) had agreed to do the work, and
while he and Jon were pulling the cowl, there was a
sudden commotion on the far side of the hangar. A
volunteer working on an EAA airplane had suffered a
sudden heart attack... but had the good sense to do it
in the presence of a trained nurse with plenty of
experience dealing with emergencies in strange places.
Jon was able to revive the victim and keep him stable
until paramedics arrived. "Extremely quick they
were, too." Jon says, giving them most of the
credit for the victim's subsequent recovery.
After all
the drama was over, Jon set off for Bangor, Maine. The
original plan had been to start the Atlantic crossing in
St. John's, Newfoundland, but Jon had heard several
stories about the expense and bureaucratic red tape of
flying from there. He decided that his limited budget
couldn't stand the gaff. Even though the trip to the
Azores would be four hours from St. John's, he decided
to leave from Bangor. Once again the weather gods
smiled. After a short period of IFR, the skies cleared
and he found he had a 10 knot tailwind. Careful records
kept on this leg proved the efficiency of his airplane.
True airspeed at 11,000' was 143 knots, running at
18" mp and 2200 rpm. Fuel burn was a miserly 22
liters/hour... about 5.6 US gallons. That works out to
about 28 mpg. All in all the trip to the Azores was
completely ordinary, if that is the word for a night
Atlantic crossing in a single engined airplane.
From the
Azores Jon flew a short hop - 7:12 - to Madrid, where he
stayed with friends for a few days. He then flew to the
famous Battle of Britain airfield, Biggin Hill and
rolled his wheels on the ground made famous by Stanford
Tuck, Douglas Bader and many others of "The
Few". England may seem a bit out of the way if you
are trying to get from Spain to Australia, but Jon had a
reason. In 1976, another Australian, Clive Canning, had
set a record, flying his T-18 from London to Melbourne
in 96 hours and 8 minutes flying time. Jon figured he
could better that, and if Clive�s record had to fall,
best it should go to another Australian.
On August
20, he left London's Shoreham airport, non-stop to
Heriklon, Crete. He crossed France on top of a layer of
smog so thick that he didn't see the ground until it
poked through the haze from below -- the Alps. Jon
pulled the nose up, and turned on the oxygen as the RV-4
climbed easily to 15,000'. Eleven hours and 18 minutes
after leaving a blazingly hot England, he landed in even
hotter Crete. Crete was one of the few places where the
aviation world had provided no contacts, so Jon was not
expecting a big welcome -- and was rather looking
forward to a couple days without any hoopla. As it
turned out, he could have used a friendly face. His
clearance to cross Egypt and Saudi Arabia, tentative
when he left England, hadn't arrived. Three days later,
he still didn't have his clearance and he had changed
hotels three times, looking for a place that was quiet
enough to sleep. He could feel himself wearing thin, so
he took matters into his own hands, via his cellular
phone... and called Saudi Arabia while sitting under the
wing of his airplane. He was startled to receive a call
back 30 minutes later, clearing him to Dubai. Within an
hour he was over the Mediterranean at 9500'. Egyptian
ATC pestered him constantly, requiring him to check in
every few minutes, and he was relieved to enter Saudi
airspace where he was required to make only two calls:
entering and leaving. Finally he landed in the United
Arab Emirates, fifteen hours out of Crete. Fellow
Australian Gary Pohlner ushered him through the minimal
formalities and put him to bed... and it became obvious
just how difficult the last few days had been when Jon
slept for almost thirteen uninterrupted hours.
August 26
was a clear morning in Dubai, and Jon, now rested and
ready to go, filed for Madras, India. He landed without
incident 13 hours later, but the leg was not easy. After
making it two thirds of the way around the globe without
serious weather, Jon found himself bumping around at
11,500' trying to stay clear of embedded CBs. He logged
over an hour of serious IMC, and consequently didn't get
to see much of the Indian subcontinent.
Getting out
of India proved to be a much greater challenge than
getting in. The Indians have perfected the art of
bureaucracy -- it took Jon seven hours, visits to four
or five different offices, and two trips from the
airport into Madras to file his flight plan to
Singapore. Helpful Indian pilots shepherded him through
the maze. "One of them told me to fly for 100 hours
in India, you have to spend at least 500 hours on
paperwork. I wouldn't have believed it before, but I do
now!"
The Bay of
Bengal between India and Singapore was the leg that Jon
had been most concerned about during his pre-trip
planning. The concern was fully justified -- he spent
four hours slamming around in the clouds and turbulence.
Even with GPS and the autopilot it was difficult to stay
on track in the swirling conditions and pounding rain.
Even though the leg was shorter than many -- slightly
less than eleven hours -- it was the most tiring of the
trip so far. Jon was relieved to find Singapore sunny
and dry. After landing his first act was to call his
parents on the cell phone. Standing by the tail with the
phone to his ear, he suddenly noticed a puddle widening
around his feet. Fuel!!? No. Water. Quite a bit of
water. A small part of the Bengal Monsoon, forced into
the aft fuselage during the flight, was slowly draining
out around the tailspring and spreading across the ramp.
From
Singapore, Jon could almost smell Australia and home.
Launching at 2 am so he could arrive in daylight, he
headed for Darwin. He knew the welcome mat was out when
he was met far off the northern Australian coast by a
flight of Aussie homebuilts. Two RV-4s, an RV-6 and a
LongEze joined him over the sea and together they made a
triumphant formation pass down the runway before
landing. Again on Australian asphalt, Jon taxied through
a water arch thrown up in greeting by the airport fire
crew and straight into the hands of the waiting media.
It was his first taste of things to come....three hours
later, still in his flight suit, he had to call a halt
to the interviews and questions and get some rest. He
still had one more leg -- his record attempt required
arriving in Melbourne and to get there he had to fly
across Australia.
The outback
was completely dark after the moon went down. Jon
relaxed in the familiar cocoon of his cockpit as the
Lycoming spun smoothly, drawing him through the air
where the dream had first blossomed, only a couple years
before. Soon enough the calm and wonder of it gave way
to hectic activity -- news helicopters from three
television stations joined up, cameras sticking out of
every door and window. Seventy seven hours and 52
minutes out of London Jon blasted down the runway at the
Moorabin airport at 190 knots, then arched up and into
the pattern. Four thousand seven hundred liters of fuel,
one exhaust pipe and three oil changes after he left
Brisbane, he was home.
Congratulations
had already begun arriving from all over the world.
The sponsors were delighted, of course, and so were
the politicians who came to have their pictures taken.
Television and radio reporters loved the ready-made
story, and over the next few weeks, Jon and his stuffed
bear Kingsford, who made the trip perched on the big
tank in the rear seat, became the most popular guests
on Australian TV. All to the good; those of us who
fly could have had no better spokesman: a quiet -but
no longer ordinary- man, had safely and professionally
flown an airplane he built himself in a rented shed
around the world.
You'd think
that Jon's journey would be enough to last a lifetime,
right? Well, the very next year, Jon set out to do it
again -- this time the other way around.
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